Esthetician (NIC Theory Exam) Concept Review

Overview

This chapter is about germs and how to keep clients and yourself safe from them. You will learn the main types of microorganisms and the three levels of germ control. The exam often asks which level fits which tool or situation.

Bacteria, viruses, fungi, and parasites can all cause problems in a salon or spa. Bacteria are single cells, and some form round, rod, or spiral shapes. Viruses are much smaller and need a living host to multiply, so a disinfectant cannot treat a virus that is already inside a person.

Sanitation, disinfection, and sterilization are three steps up a ladder. Sanitation only lowers the number of germs on a clean surface. Disinfection kills most germs on hard, nonporous items, and sterilization kills every living microbe, including spores. A tool must be cleaned before it is disinfected, because dirt blocks the disinfectant.

Porous items such as cotton pads, wooden sticks, and emery boards cannot be disinfected, so they are used once and thrown away. Blood and body fluids are treated as possibly infectious on every client. Handwashing, gloves, and clean linens are everyday habits that help prevent the spread of infection.

Overview

This chapter explains how the body is built and how the skin works. It starts with cells and works up to organs and body systems. The exam also asks about skin layers and the muscles and nerves of the face.

The cell is the basic unit of life. Cells of the same kind form a tissue, tissues form an organ such as the skin, and organs working together form a body system. The skin is the body's largest organ and protects against germs, water loss, and the sun.

The skin has three main parts. The epidermis is the thin outer layer with no blood vessels, and it makes new cells that move upward and shed. The dermis lies beneath it and holds blood vessels, nerves, glands, and hair follicles. Under the dermis, the subcutaneous layer stores fat and cushions the body.

Melanin is the pigment made by melanocytes in the deepest layer of the epidermis. It gives skin its color and helps absorb UV light. On the face, the trigeminal nerve carries feeling, and the facial nerve moves the muscles of expression.

Overview

This chapter covers what can go wrong with the skin. You will learn which glands make oil and sweat, how to name a lesion, and which conditions are contagious. A key skill is knowing when a condition is outside your scope and needs a doctor.

Sebaceous glands make oil called sebum, and sudoriferous glands make sweat. When a pore clogs with oil and dead cells, a comedone forms. An open one is a blackhead and a closed one is a whitehead. Acne can then become red bumps and pus-filled spots.

Lesions are grouped as primary or secondary. Primary lesions, such as macules, papules, vesicles, and pustules, appear first on the skin. Secondary lesions, such as crusts, scales, and scars, develop later or from changes in a primary one.

Some conditions spread from person to person. Ringworm (tinea), impetigo, and scabies are contagious, so an esthetician does not treat them and sends the client to a physician. Skin growths and cancers need medical evaluation. Basal cell carcinoma is the most common skin cancer, and melanoma is the most dangerous.

Overview

This chapter covers the basics of hair, electricity, and workplace safety. These topics are linked because estheticians use electrical devices and chemicals near clients. The exam asks simple definitions and safe habits.

A strand of hair has three layers. The cuticle is the outer layer of overlapping scales, the cortex is the middle layer that gives strength and color, and the medulla is the center, which is not always present. The hair grows from a follicle, and the growth cycle has three phases. Anagen is growth, catagen is a short transition, and telogen is rest.

Electricity is measured with a few basic units. The volt measures the pressure pushing the current, the ampere measures the amount of current, and the ohm measures resistance. A conductor lets current flow easily, and an insulator blocks it. Direct current flows one way, while alternating current switches direction.

Safe equipment use means keeping cords and plugs in good shape, keeping cords, plugs, and outlets dry, and not overloading outlets. A fuse or circuit breaker stops the current if there is too much. A Safety Data Sheet explains the hazards of each chemical, and chemicals should be kept in labeled, closed containers.

Overview

This chapter explains what to do before the service starts. A good consultation helps you choose safe products and treatments and builds trust with the client. You will also learn skin types and the Fitzpatrick scale.

The client fills out an intake form and then talks with you about health history, allergies, medicines, current products, and goals. Look for conditions that could make a service unsafe. If a client has a medical concern, you refer them to a physician instead of diagnosing it. Keep records private and update them at each visit.

Skin types describe how the skin behaves. Normal skin is balanced, dry skin lacks oil, oily skin makes extra oil, and combination skin is oily in the T-zone and drier on the cheeks. Sensitive skin reacts easily. Dehydrated skin lacks water, which is different from lacking oil, and any skin type can be dehydrated.

The Fitzpatrick scale groups skin by how it reacts to sun, from Type I, which burns easily, to Type VI, which almost never burns. It helps you choose treatments and sun advice. Tools like a magnifying lamp and Wood's lamp help you look at the skin closely.

Overview

This chapter walks through the facial from start to finish and the ways to exfoliate. The exam asks about the correct order of steps and which massage movement is which. You will also compare chemical and mechanical exfoliation.

A basic facial begins with a consultation, then removes makeup and cleanses the skin. Next comes skin analysis, exfoliation, and steam if suitable. Extractions may follow, then massage, a mask, and finally toner, moisturizer, and sunscreen. Keeping that order helps in answering sequence questions.

Massage uses five classic movements. Effleurage is light gliding, petrissage is kneading, friction is firm circular pressure, tapotement is tapping, and vibration is fine shaking. Effleurage is often used to begin and end the massage because it calms the client.

Exfoliation removes dead surface cells. Chemical exfoliants such as alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids loosen the bonds between cells. Mechanical exfoliation, such as scrubs, brushes, or microdermabrasion, rubs the cells off. Steam softens skin, but it should be limited for clients with couperose skin or rosacea.

Overview

This chapter covers temporary hair removal and services for the eyebrows and eyelashes. The main ideas are the difference between removing hair at the root and at the surface, and how to wax safely. Many questions ask about contraindications.

Epilation removes the whole hair, including the root. Waxing, tweezing, and threading are examples. Depilation removes hair only at the surface of the skin, and shaving and depilatory creams are examples. Hair removed at the root takes longer to grow back.

For both soft wax and hard wax, the wax is applied in the direction of growth. Soft wax is removed with a strip and hard wax is lifted off by hand, and both are pulled back against growth, close and parallel to the skin, to reduce pain and breakage. Test the wax temperature first and never double-dip a stick. Do not wax skin that is sunburned, broken, or irritated, or skin treated with certain medications.

Brow shaping uses tweezers or wax to remove stray hairs and follows the natural arch. Tinting adds color to lashes or brows and requires a patch test first, because dyes can cause allergic reactions. The FDA has not approved any color additive for dyeing lashes or brows, and some states restrict the service, so check your state board's rules. Protect the eyes during any lash or brow service.

Overview

This chapter covers makeup color, product safety, sun protection, and the main skin care ingredients. The exam often checks the color wheel, hygiene with makeup tools, and what each ingredient group does.

The primary colors are red, yellow, and blue. Mixing two primaries makes a secondary color: orange, green, or violet. Complementary colors sit opposite one another on the wheel, so they cancel each other when mixed. Green neutralizes redness, and yellow-toned products soften violet tones.

Makeup hygiene protects clients from infection. Use a clean spatula to remove product from a container, never dip an applicator straight into it, and never share or reuse applicators on different clients. Disposable applicators should be used once, and brushes should be cleaned and disinfected between clients.

Skin care ingredients fall into groups by purpose. Humectants draw water into the skin, occlusives form a layer that holds water in, and emollients soften. Broad-spectrum sunscreen protects against both UVA and UVB rays, and SPF mainly rates UVB protection. Daily use of sunscreen helps slow visible aging caused by the sun.